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Polenta is an ancient food in ������ý, dating back to the Etruscans. Early versions of the porridge were made from millet, rye, and barley flour. It wasn’t until the 17th century, when field corn, a New World ingredient, was introduced to Europe, that polenta became a corn-based dish. It has always been a humble dish, but like so much of ������ý’s “cucina povera,” it is now appreciated for its flavor, its versatility, and the way it lifts up other ingredients.

There are many regional variations: in Lombardy and the Veneto, a dish called “polenta e osei” pairs polenta with small roasted game birds. In Liguria, polenta, hearty winter vegetables and beans are slowly cooked down into a dense, nourishing stew called “polenta incatenata.” And in the Apennine Mountains of Abruzzo, polenta is poured out onto a large wooden board called a “spianatoia,” topped with sausages and ragù, and served as a communal dish. 

But in Valle d’Aosta, ������ý’s smallest region, tucked up in the northwest corner of the peninsula, polenta is not just a pantry staple; it is a daily ritual, the way a dish of pasta remains a daily ritual for many people in southern ������ý. In Aosta itself, a cozy alpine city ringed with mountains, polenta is featured on every restaurant and osteria menu. Even the town’s Christmas market has two polenta stands, positioned side by side. This I discovered when my family and I spent the holidays there in 2018. Both stands almost always had customers lined up for warm bowls, no matter the time of day or night. The offerings were various: polenta drizzled with hot melted butter; polenta topped with smoky grilled sausages; polenta with beef stew called carbonnade; and my favorite, polenta “concia,” with lots of fontina Val d’Aosta, the region’s famous melty cheese, stirred in.

“Concia” is a tricky word to translate. It can mean tanned (as in a beach tan or a tanned hide); but also ‘dirty,’ ‘cured,’ ‘styled,’ or ‘fixed.’ My best guess is the latter applies here, where a bowl of plain porridge is “fixed” by the addition of a nearly obscene amount of Fontina. Use a blend of fine- and medium-grind polenta, as they do in Aosta. Serve this rich polenta as is, or topped with sausage, beef stew, or braised greens.

Serves 6-8 people